By | Sydney Stevenson
High fashion is known for pushing boundaries in apparel, eccentric designers, creating trends… and its lack of representation. Since its conception, the modeling industry has been known for championing and promoting thin, white models. The struggle for equity and inclusion in the industry is still being fought today, but these models have helped foster change.
Widely considered to be the first Black supermodel, Mississippi-born Naomi Sims was told by multiple modeling agencies that her skin was too dark. Not letting this discourage her, she was the first Black woman to appear on the cover of Ladies Home Journal in 1968. During the same time, Pat Cleveland left America for Europe due to discrimination in the industry. Cleveland promised not to return to America until a Black model covered U.S.Vogue. Her wish came true in 1974 when Beverly Johnson graced the cover of the magazine. Cleveland kept her promise and subsequently returned to the U.S. and continued her modeling career in New York.
Beverly Johnson’s inclusion in Vogue paved the way for other black models to be featured in both editorials and on the runway. On Johnson’s impact, fashion writer Marjon Carlos wrote, “Every major fashion publication began to feature black models; Givenchy hired an all-black roster of fit models.” Also during the 1970s, Grace Jones rose to fame due to her androgynous features and bold personality. Within three months of her modeling career, Jones landed four magazine covers.
Fast forward to the 1990s, often referred to as the golden age of modeling, Naomi Campbell quickly rose to superstardom and was at the time, one of the highest-paid models in the industry. Despite her success, Campbell still faced discrimination from brands and agencies. However, Campbell managed to use her success to help launch and support the careers of Black models and designers such as Anok Yai, Virgil Abloh, Adut Akech, and Lee McQueen. In 1998, Alek Wek famously tossed off her blonde wig in a runway show, risking her career, to protest texturism in the industry.
Today, although not perfect, due to the contributions of the women listed above and countless more, the modeling industry is more diverse than it ever has been. Anok Yai and Adut Akech, both dark-skinned South Sudanese models, are in high demand by major fashion brands around the world. When asked about her influences, Yai said, “Naomi Campbell and Grace Jones. They inspire me so much, and they paved the way for so many of us.” Other dark-skinned models including Maria Borges, Leomie Anderson, and Ajok Daing have also recently risen to prominence in the industry despite barriers due to their skin color.
Black plus-size models are also finally getting their long-awaited spotlight. Precious Lee was the first Black plus-size model featured on the cover of Sports Illustrated. Lee has also walked for several high-profile brands including Moschino, Versace, and Michael Kors. Paloma Elsesser was named Model of the Year in 2023, the first Black plus-size woman to do so. Jari Jones, a Black plus-size trans model, was the first Black trans woman to be featured in a Calvin Klein campaign in 2020.
Today, the modeling industry is undoubtedly more diverse than it was in the past. However, black models still have to fight to limit racism and fetishization on the runway, fight to have proper hairdressers during shows and shoots, and fight for equal pay and representation. The path to equality is seemingly never-ending, but these women have begun clearing it to make the journey easier for those who come after them.
Sources
“Naomi Sims: 1948-2009.” Essence, Essence, 29 Oct. 2020,
Jones, Ellen E. “Pat Cleveland: The Model Who Partied with Warhol, Lived with Lagerfeld – and Took on Vogue.” The Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 13 Aug. 2020,
www.theguardian.com/society/2020/aug/13/pat-cleveland-the-model-who-partied with-warhol-lived-with-lagerfeld-and-took-on-vogue.
Shaw, Ivan. “Beverly Johnson in Vogue - Google Arts & Culture.” Google, Google, artsandculture.google.com/story/beverly-johnson-in-vogue-conde-nast-archive/Pg WRXUQYqGBLKA?hl=en.
Mac Donnell, Chloe. “‘It’s a Naomissance’: How Naomi Campbell Transcends Fashion.” The Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 6 Oct. 2023, www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/oct/06/how-naomi-campbell-transcends-fashi on-model-profile-v-and-a.
Wally, Maxine. “For Anok Yai, Modeling Is Just the Beginning.” W Magazine, 6 Sept. 2023, www.wmagazine.com/fashion/anok-yai-cover-interview-2023.
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