By | Amaya Franklin
This season the most fashion-forward and innovative menswear collections were at the hands of two black women. Martine Rose and Grace Wales Bonner are changing the game when it comes to men’s fashion. From oversized silhouettes, impeccable tailoring, and use of layering.
Martine Rose is a British-Jamaican designer based in London. Her namesake label was founded in 2007, gaining a small cult following for her innovative designs. In 2015, Rose was brought on as a consultant by Demna Gvasalia to assist with Balenciaga’s menswear designs. “That really changed my life,” she says. “Demna was so brave in giving me a real shot.” (Porter, 2021, para. 3)
After her time with Balenciaga, her brand quickly gained recognition for its distinctive designs that challenge traditional notions of masculinity and fashion. One of Rose’s most praised characteristics is her ability to blend diverse influences, seamlessly integrating streetwear, sportswear, and elements of British subcultures into her collections. She is heavily influenced by her upbringing in South London, referencing 90s rave culture, reggae, and hip-hop, directly embedding her lived experiences into her work. (HighSnobiety, 2024)
This menswear season, Rose showcased her collection with a secret show in Paris, only announced at midnight prior to the show’s start date. The collection was deeply intimate and a celebration of community. When speaking to British Vogue, Martine stated “It’s such a special project to me, so I’m hoping everyone will love it as much as I do.” (Kessler, 2024, para. 1) Some of the models utilized for the show were scouted from the streets of London and even overseas. Chuck Rabb, an “instructor, coordinator, choreographer, producer, and model” from Atlanta, GA was flown out to partake in the show after Rose discovered one of his videos on Instagram.
The collection featured oversized tailored suits, asymmetrical sweaters, and camo print pushing the boundaries of what menswear is. “I aimed to infuse a sense of extravagance into the collection while maintaining a playfulness,” she explained. “Although there’s a subtle nod to the ’80s, everything had to feel contemporary and smart – it’s familiar, but ultra-luxe.” (Kessler, 2024, para. 5) The designer also collaborated with Clarks for the footwear in her collection.
Another designer making moves in the menswear industry is Grace Wales Bonner. Also hailing from British-Jamaican heritage, the designer uses her culture and identity to influence her designs. Bonner began her design career as a student at Central Saint Martins in London. There, she worked with British fashion label Meadham Kirchhoff and American Vogue, where she assisted fashion editor Camilla Nickerson. In 2014, Bonner graduated from CSM and presented her collection ‘Afrique’ which won the L’Oréal Professional Talent Award. The same year, she launched her brand, Wales Bonner. In 2016, Grace would later go on to win the LVMH Price for Young Designers.
Her work revolves around the exploration of cultural, historical, and societal themes, creating a unique space for conversations about identity and representation within fashion. Her designs often blur the lines between menswear and womenswear, challenging traditional gender norms and embracing a fluid and inclusive aesthetic. She draws inspiration from a wide range of sources, including her heritage, African diasporic history, literature, music, and art. Some of her most recognized work includes her ongoing collaboration with Adidas Originals. Bonner references the British-Jamaican communities of the 1970s and 80s, also taking inspiration from her father’s wardrobe to create cutting-edge reinterpretations of Adidas pieces including their tracksuits and Samba sneakers. (Furness, 2022)
For her Fall/Winter 2024 menswear show, Grace was inspired by American college life. When researching for her show, she spent most of her time at Howard University’s Moorland-Spingarn Research Center, where she looked at the institution’s sporting, musical, and literary history. (Conti, 2024) “I’ve always been drawn to Howard University as a location, and the way its campus has been a beacon for intellectual and poetic expression. On their campus and in their archives, I came across amazing visions of style and exuberance; from there it became an imaginative encounter with the setting, the homecoming celebrations..” (Conroy, 2024, para. 2) The collection was composed of crewnecks and vests embroidered with Howard’s logo, coats and varsity-inspired jackets, and layering influenced by preppy fashion transgressing the traditional forms of menswear design. In addition, the collection featured new designs from her collaboration with Adidas as well as textile and jewelry designs featured throughout various looks in the show.
Martine Rose and Grace Wales Bonner have undeniably left a mark on the landscape of menswear, each contributing a unique and transformative perspective to the industry. Their distinct design philosophies and approaches have challenged conventional standards, pushing the boundaries of what menswear can be. Martine Rose's avant-garde aesthetic and boundary-pushing designs redefine streetwear, while Grace Wales Bonner's exploration of cultural themes redefines masculinity. Both designers’ immersive storytelling and innovative designs have set new standards for creativity and continue to leave a lasting impact on the menswear industry.
Sources
AnOther. (2024, January 24). Wales Bonner’s Sensitive Ode to Howard University. AnOther. https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/15376/wales-bonner-aw24-fw24-show-review-mos-def-howard-university-yasiin-bey
Nast, C. (2021, June 9). “If Everyone Else Loves Something, I’m Suspicious”: How Martine Rose Built The Cult Brand Beloved By Rihanna And Drake. British Vogue. https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/martine-rose-vogue-interview
Nast, C. (2024, January 19). “I’ve Never Cried That Much At One Of My Shows”: Martine Rose On Her Secret AW24 Celebration Of Local Heroes. British Vogue. https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/martine-rose-aw24#intcid=_vogue-uk-bottom-recirc_de1cb0ea-50c6-41f2-852c-d3b41dbb0a28_similar2-3
Comments