By | Amaya Franklin
After a two-year long season without a creative director, Louis Vuitton has appointed Pharrell Williams as the Creative Director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear. Formerly overseen by Virgil Abloh, the luxury house has now made a move to fill the position of creative director after his passing. On February 14th, 2023, LVMH stated “Louis Vuitton is delighted to welcome Pharrell Williams as its new Men’s Creative Director, effective immediately.” (LVMH, 2023) The move came as a shock to many, as there were several speculations about who would be taking on this new role. (Ex. Grace Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, etc.) Before doing a deep dive into the appointment and industry criticism, let’s take a closer look at Pharrell Williams as an artist and brand.
Pharrell Williams is an artist renowned for his contributions to the music industry, as a singer, songwriter, and producer. Born on April 5, 1973, in Virginia Beach, Virginia, he gained widespread recognition as one-half of the production duo The Neptunes and as a member of the funk-rock band N.E.R.D. Beyond his impact on the music industry, Pharrell has cultivated a distinctive presence in the world of fashion, solidifying himself as a style icon of hip-hop fashion. His styling choices often blend streetwear with avant-garde elements, reflecting his eclectic taste and innovative approach to fashion. Pharrell has collaborated with major fashion brands and designers, establishing himself as a contributor to the fashion industry. In 2003, with his long-time friend, Nigo, founder of A Bathing Ape, formed the Billionaire Boys Club. The brand fused streetwear and luxury fashion. Williams also has had a long-standing collaboration with Adidas, a capsule collection designed in partnership with Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld, and various other fashion venturers ranging from clothing to accessories.
While his experience with fashion is vast, there were many critiques, leading to the question of whether black designers are held to higher standards than their white counterparts. Below are several comments concerning Pharrell’s appointment:
“Appointing people who are immensely talented, like a Pharrell, into appointments where they’re not necessarily an expert, per se, is challenging to stomach.” (Parisi, 2023)
“My only gripe with the Pharrell LV appointment is him not being a designer…” (Parisi, 2023)
“..it seems as if Pharrell is acting as a merchant who is more concerned with making clothes that sell rather than imbuing them with actual design.” (Hughes, 2024)
While critiques and conversation surrounding fashion are necessary, the comments surrounding Pharrell’s appointment seem to be rooted in bias. Black fashion designers often find themselves held to a higher standard within the fashion industry, facing both implicit and explicit expectations that can differ from their counterparts. When Virgil Abloh served as the Creative Director for Louis Vuitton’s menswear, he also faced the same scrutiny. White designers in contrast are not questioned about their lack of construction skills, ‘celebrity statuses, or lackluster designs. Black Designers often have to bear the weight of disproving preconceived notions, excelling not just as designers but as representatives of black culture within a predominantly white industry. This heightened scrutiny results in an extra layer of pressure to create groundbreaking designs, navigate through systemic obstacles, and break down barriers for future generations of black creatives. If someone of Pharrell’s stature can face the harsh realities of being a black creative, the impact on smaller black designers is tenfold. When will black designers be able to create freely without the pressure to constantly supersede expectations?
Sources
Givhan, R. (2023, February 15). Perspective | Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams and the loss of fashion magic. Washington Post. https://www.washingtonpost.com/nation/2023/02/15/louis-vuitton-pharrell-williams-robin-givhan/
Horyn, C. (2023, June 21). Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton, Confident But Without Audacity. The Cut. https://www.thecut.com/2023/06/pharrell-louis-vuitton-review-cathy-horyn.html
Hughes, A. (2024, January 19). Should We Expect Pharrell Williams to Create Like a Fashion Designer? Complex. https://www.complex.com/style/a/aria-hughes/pharrell-louis-vuitton-mens-fall-winter-2024-review
Louis Vuitton appoints Pharrell Williams as its new Men’s Creative Director. (2023, February 14). LVMH. https://www.lvmh.com/news-documents/news/louis-vuitton-appoints-pharrell-williams-as-its-new-mens-creative-director/
Parisi, D. (2023, February 17). The industry reacts to Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton appointment. Glossy. https://www.glossy.co/fashion/the-industry-reacts-to-pharrell-williams-louis-vuitton-appointment/
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