By | Amaya Franklin
Every fashion enthusiast’s favorite time of the year, New York Fashion Week has quickly approached, but has the coveted event lost its spark? Once renowned for its exclusivity and glamour, the bi-annual event is going through major changes. From the lack of legacy brands and the increase of influencers and social media stars at shows, a new Fashion Week takes rise.
At the height of its time, Fashion Week belonged to designers, models, journalists, and
Anna Wintour. If you weren’t a part of the fashion industry the likelihood of attending a high-profile runway show was slim. With the digitization of fashion, it has become more accessible to the masses. Now, people can easily search New York Fashion Week and be met with thousands of videos, pictures, and articles detailing almost every event. As social media continues to grow, influencers have also begun to find a place at the event. Various debates about influencers attending Fashion Week have circled the internet with many claiming that the presence of influencers is ruining Fashion Week. An article from In the Know details the different complaints:
“Fashion Week is dead,” said Taylor Hawkins (@taiilormade), a model and digital creator, in a post from Sept. 10. “Just because somebody has a lot of followers does not mean that they need to be at Fashion Week events. Imma say it. A lot of y’all can’t dress.” (Smoot, para.7, 2023)
“I went to a fashion event this week and spent DAYS picking my outfit. And the girls
were wearing bridge and tunnel club outfits it was so BAD,” commented @princessrogue.
Overall critiques seem to stem from influencer's lack of knowledge and ability to dress in a way that’s appropriate for Fashion Week. Other comments suggest that New York Fashion Week has become too accessible. A comment states, “Paris Fashion Week replaced NYFW, NYC made it too accessible.” (Smoot, para.12, 2023) Many staple legacy brands that once showcased in New York have moved to private/ off-schedule showings or presenting during other Fashion Weeks. Stella McCartney, for example, was showcased in Paris Fashion Week this season. (Paris Fashion Week Official Calendar, 2023) The lack of big brands showing has left a noticeable hole in New York Fashion Week, but is this newfound openness all bad?
While Fashion Week has opened itself up to influencers, it has also made room for
diversity and accessibility. Within recent years more black designers have had the ability to
showcase during fashion week. Designers like Laquan Smith and Sergio Hudson are finally
getting respect and acknowledgment from the fashion industry. Big companies are sponsoring Black-owned brands and presenting them during Fashion Week. “UPS was an official sponsor for NYFW, and they presented $150,000 in total to three HBCU alumni who started Black-owned brands to put on the fashion show of their dreams.” (Coger, para.2, 202) Black in Fashion Council, an organization dedicated to representing and securing the advancement of Black individuals in the fashion and beauty industry, hosted a showroom showcasing several Black designers including Michelle, Adepoju (Kìléntár), Fumi Egbon (Fumi the Label), and Tia Adeola (Tia Adeola). (Kim, 2023) Influencers aside, New York Fashion Week has transformed into a hub of inclusivity that would have never existed during its “prime.”
Like any other social phenomenon, Fashion Week is impacted by the world and the way it changes. While you may not be a fan of influencers infiltrating the fashion space, the reality is Fashion Week will continue to change and evolve. So, either get with it or get lost. If you’re looking to engage in fashion without influencers try seeking info from journalists and fashion critics instead. Rian Phin (@thatadult on Instagram and Twitter) is a black woman and fashion commentator/ writer who creates content centered around fashion history and research.
Additionally, Vogue Runway posts critic reviews of collections alongside the photos which can be read in the app or online.
So long and Happy Fashion Week!
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