By | Renee Ellis
Our hearts are moved through the lives of people around us. As a race, humans share a love of connection. Through various methods, we find ways to relate to one another. One of the most tried and true ways of associating with those around us is through self-expression. How we show up in the world impacts how people see us, and how we see others, and it allows us to communicate in ways words can’t. Throughout history, fashion has been a catalyst for self-expression. Clothing has brought to communication what words could never: a visual example of who we are.
Though self-expression is supported by fashion, it is important to discuss what fashion is supported by. Movements push for change, social advocacy, advocacy for self-expression, and more have been influenced by fashion and design. But what is the driving force behind fashion? Truthfully, it is the lives, stories, and creativity of a myriad of cultures and expressions that push fashion forward. For example, African American culture has influenced fashion in America for generations. According to VCU News, [Holly] Alford said the Black community’s influence on fashion in the U.S. can be traced as far back as slavery. When reflecting on the forced labor that enslaved people did, many think of cotton and other crops, but less frequently do they consider the work enslaved people did weaving fabrics. The managing the dyeing processes such as the use of indigo, which were large markets in Virginia, she said.
Holly Alford, director of inclusion and equity and senior director of design at the VCU School of the Arts, “If I'm from Africa, I'm going to weave and make quilts from my culture,” Alford said. “And that has a huge influence on the textile market in the United States (Heymann)."
Our fashion industry today is impacted by the lives and stories of people from the past. The cultures and histories of different people are the backbone of fashion. Asian cultures have greatly influenced fashion, however, their impact is not highlighted as it ought to be in the Western world. A light needs to be shined on their contributions. Minority groups have been stripped of their rights, their respect, and their history in the fashion industry for far too long. It is time to bring to the forefront, the inspiring cultures of Asia that have shaped the way we dress today.
The colors, shapes, styles, and creativity of Asian people have captivated fashion and elevated style, especially in the Western world. However, this is not a new trend or a one-off phenomenon. There are numerous examples from historical creation techniques such as certain embroideries spanning generations, the designer, Vivienne Tam presenting her most memorable spring 1995 collection, and so much more (Category). One cannot even begin to fully encapsulate the impact of Asian cultures on the entire world. In an article published by BurdaLuxury.com, it says, “The rich and colorful history of traditional Asian garments spans centuries, with each region boasting a unique and distinctive style that reflects the nuances of their respective cultures. From the elegant cheongsam in China, the ornate hanbok in Korea, and the refined kimono in Japan, to the resplendent sari in India, the sartorial wealth of Asia is as varied and vibrant as the lands that it encompasses. In a world that craves authenticity and diversity, designers have rediscovered the charm and elegance of these garments, bringing them back into the mainstream with modern adaptations and fresh designs (Bradley).”
Look into the shops and stores in the mall today. Look at the colors that make each garment and the shapes of the pieces on the models. Some of the most popular designs today are derivatives of Asian cultures. Even by fast fashion stores like FashionNova, you can tell where designers get their inspiration, but rarely do they ever give the proper credit. This leads to the discussion of cultural appropriation. Defined by the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, “‘Cultural Appropriation is “the act of taking or using things from a culture that is not your own, especially without showing that you understand or respect this culture. Taking an aspect of culture + not knowing the historical implications of that culture (and refusing to do actual research) = cultural appropriation”.
Fashion is not new to cultural appropriation. It is quite interesting the amount of cultural appropriation that takes place in an industry that is built off of the experiences, cultures, and stories from all over the world. There is no fashion without the people, yet the industry often steals instead of celebrates. Takes instead of appreciating, and assumes instead of discussing. Unfortunately, people are hurt due to this unhealthy habit that fuels the business behind our apparel. However, there is a way to take inspiration from others and use it to create something new and exciting. It is all about working to understand rather than to be seen. Respecting the culture, and the people from which you take the inspiration, and acknowledging where inspiration has been gathered can all work together to avoid offending or disrespecting others. However, designers shouldn’t let the fear of cultural appropriation stop them from branching out to different cultures. As mentioned before, there is no fashion without the people. There is a way to properly honor and respect the lives of others and to celebrate different cultures. Douglas Young, co-founder Of Goods of Desire is quoted saying, “The recent phenomenon of cultural appropriation where people are afraid to wear Asian or Chinese clothing is a deterrence to us. I don't see why people cannot wear clothing of Chinese tradition. To us, it's flattering (Bradley).”
It is important to recognize the cultures that shape our industry but also to make room for the proper representation in the industry. Like the majority of minority groups who have influenced the various design industries of the world, Asian cultures, and people have created waves in fashion, but still accurate representation of their cultures is rare. Julie Lui is a business owner who found that the representation of authentic, cultural clothing was scarce. Furthermore, Cheryl Leung also found that proper representation of her culture was needed.
Julie Liu, the founder of Qipology, started her business after struggling to find a modern qipao to wear to a friend's Shanghai-themed wedding. Liu shares, "I always associated qipaos with older ladies and thought they were too traditional.” This changed after she wore her first qipao, and felt empowered, beautiful, and elegant. Both Leung and Liu aim to make traditional Chinese garments more accessible and wearable for modern women. Qipology’s most popular items are the Tang jackets, which are a blend of East meets West and can be dressed up or down, and the bridal qipaos, which provide modern and versatile options for brides looking to represent their heritage on their special day. When asked about the future of traditional Chinese garments in the fashion industry, Liu states, "Younger generations are now much more open to wearing qipaos or Chinese Oriental clothing which is quite interesting as this was never the case when I was younger."
Leung also believes that the fashion industry will continue to incorporate Chinese elements into their collections, saying, “We’re seeing a resurgence of pride in Asia to embrace heritage, and more importantly, seeing that translate into new creativity in fashion for all.”
There is space for proper representation throughout the entire fashion industry. Fashion is inspired by the beauty in Asian cultures so it is imperative to respect, recognize, and appreciate all the Asian cultures that have shaped the design industry. Simultaneously, it is crucial to avoid cultural appropriation, but proper education and accountability can help to avoid using inspiration irresponsibly.
Fashion is a wearable gallery of stories. People, self-expression, and cultures are the backbone of design and deserve their highlight in the forefront of the fashion industry. Society would not be nearly as connected and inspired as it is today without the cultures of others and the proper understanding of the lives they have lived.
Sources
Bradley, Faye. “The Rise of Traditional Asian Garments in Modern Fashion.” BurdaLuxury, 15
“Category: Asia.” Fashion History Timeline, fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/asia/. Accessed
13 Feb. 2024.
Heymann, Amelia. “Fashion Expert Reflects on How Black Designers, Models and Musicians
Have Influenced the Way the World Sees and Wears Clothing.” VCU News, news.vcu.edu/article/2023/02/how-black-designers-models-and-musicians-have-influenced-fashion#:~:text=Hoop%20earrings%2C%20lettuce%20hems%2C%20acrylic,communities%20have%20made%20to%20fashion. Accessed 13 Feb. 2024.
“Met’s China: Through the Looking Glass Show Presents a Fantasy of the Far East.” The
Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 4 May 2015, www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/may/04/met-china-fashion-art-exhibit-gala.
“Research Guides: Learn & Unlearn: Anti-Racism Resource Guide: Cultural Appropriation.”
Cultural Appropriation - Learn & Unlearn: Anti-Racism Resource Guide - Research Guides at School of the Art Institute of Chicago, School of the Art Institute of Chicago.libraryguides.saic.edu/learn_unlearn/culturalcompetence2. Accessed 13 Feb. 2024.